The Long Leg to Laos

The last five days of travel have been brutal! We took a 12-hour 1st class aircon overnight bus from Chiang Mai to Khon Kaen. I know that "first class" bit really sounds impressive. However, what it means is that we spent 12 hours in a fah-reezing germ factory, with Francis almost losing his cool because the overhead lights on the bus didn't work. Poor thing just wanted to read one of his 19th century novels to lull himself to sleep. For a land with 97% literacy, the Thais don't seem to care so much for reading.

After arriving in Khon Kaen we understood why everyone seemed so perplexed that we chose that route to approach Laos - not a town so warm to farang. And I am the antithesis of incognito with my platinum hair and tattoos. If there was veg food to be had in that town, we never found it. We've discovered that eating is the hardest bit about traveling in SE Asia, and Thailand is not always the Land of Smiles.

Next destination was Nong Kai - where there was one veg restaurant, a few smiles, a lovely board walk, and an impressive wat. I also participated in a little Thai wine tasting. Fran bowed out after taste number two. Truth be told Thai wine tastes like something that would be produced in a jail house.

We did meet a cute little couple from San Diego who decided to stay in Nong Kai and work there for two months at the restaurant/bar/guest house. They were terribly helpful in explaining the nuts and bolts of what to expect at the border crossing to Laos.

Unfortunately, we were not prepared for the totality of the experience. I had to bust out some of my old school mosh pit skills as we waited in the immigration line to exit Thailand. Lines do not exist in Thailand, and the Thais have no qualms about squeezing themselves in front of you. I battled it out for a good half hour with one little Thai lady. In the end - in spite of my elbows, weight advantage, and incessant hip-checking, that little gal got her way.

Immigration on the Laos side of the Friendship Bridge was anything but friendly. An unfortunate introduction into the country. We chose a taxi instead of a tuk tuk (open air vehicle) for the 24 km drive into Vientiane. Silly Americans assumed taxi meant aircon. We'd have done just as well to tuk tuk it bumping along the dusty road to the city.

By this time my cold (from the 1st class air con bus) had gotten the best of me. I'm filthy, soaked wet with sweat, and ready to pass out. Fran checks out our selected guest house and decides (wisely at the time) that it'll do for a night - just until I can regain my constitution.

The place was perfectly nasty, but I couldn't bear the thought of moving on without a shower and a nap. Thank goodness for sleep sacks because the Donald Duck sheets on this bed hadn't been changed in eons, we covered with cigarette hole burns, and bed bugs. Fran left me huddled up in my sleep sack while he went on a reconnaissance mission for a more acceptable place to bed down.

We ended up around the corner - for only $4 more per night we a clean bed, friendly staff, and breakfast included.

Can't wait to write more about Vientiane. I know that we're going to love this town with its French aura, $2 chardonnay, and REAL coffee.