Thursday, December 20, 2012

Waiting for the end of the world

The blog post indicates Seattle time, but in Luang Prabang, Laos it's neigh on noon Friday 12.21.12 as I write this. It seems no one mentioned to the Laotians that the world was supposed to end today. S'OK, though. It seems the Mayans were wrong. And I doubt the Laotians would have abandoned their day to day doings regardless.

It does seem that since we last traveled this way someone has told the Thais & Laotians about Christmas. It doesn't feel at all like Christmastime in the 90 degree heat, surrounded by palms & tropical flowers, sipping drinks along the Mekong.

The SE Asians have put their own spin on Christmas decorating. Sexy Santa seems to be the rage in Chiang Mai.



In Luang Prabang they have hung Christmas crackers from the bamboo. Our guest house has gone all out - two life size Santas next to fully decorated fir trees with expertly wrapped gifts at the base of the tree. Saxophone Santa plays some sexy Christmas jazz. The hotel staff love to turn it on for us every time we walk by.
There is a third life size Santa  - clearly in need of some repair as he's missing his legs. Right now he's hanging from the rafters with his head covered by a sack like he's waiting to be executed.

Although we're blowing the budget in Laos, it's quite nice to see the country more prosperous. In 2007 the Laotians did not  embrace their own currency. Rather than the Laos Kip - most businesses only accepted USD or Thai Baht. Now all prices are in kip - challenging my math skills at 7,900 kip to the dollar.
Instead of swanky accommodation for $25 USD you're more likely to pay twice that for a little less swank.
We once dreamed of properly brewed coffee while we choked down some Nescafe. Now there are proper lattes being served on every corner. The English translations have left us with much less to titter about ("crab" spelled "crap") -except for the sign in our hotel bathroom asking us to please not put the "nappy in the bowel".
Small children still patrol the main drag in the evening - with their boxes of trinkets - shoving them in the faces of dining Westerners as they sternly command "Buy something". They are less persistent than before - accepting a head shake & shrugging as they walk away, on to the next one of us who looks for all the world to them exactly like the last. They are less intrigued by suicide blondes, facial piercings, & ladies with tattoos. They are drawn instead to chattering with small white children who have brought dolls from America - dolls with long blonde hair & princess dresses & names like Belle.



We hope with all hope that some things never change - the monks & novices who solemnly shuffle along the wat grounds. The wats that are more splendid than those we've seen in Thailand. The Beerlao that still costs about a dollar for a 22 ounce bottle. The view along the Mekong that will take your breath away.




 

3 comments:

Paul Petersen said...

Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts and photos. We both really enjoy each post. Paul / MJ

Paul Petersen said...

Thank you for taking the time to share your thoughts and photos. Mary Jane and I look forward to each post.

Erica Leigh said...

I am so glad that world has not ended! It is wonderful to sit here in my robe and look at the snow falling and read about steamy santas and christmas in SE Asia, I love you both!