Monday, October 8, 2007

Migrant Monkeys in Malaysia

I see that we've spoiled you all terribly with our (my) frequent posts and beautiful photos. Sorry no photos in this posting. As soon as I'm able - I'll do an all photos posting with annotations. In the interim (as I hunt out an internet cafe that will read my camera card) I wanted to let everyone know that we're fine. Alive. And well-fed.

As I am terrifically fond of counting things (it brings order to an otherwise chaotic existence)- here are my latest calculations. We've slept in 23 beds and eaten in 100 restaurants. We've read 24 books. We've handled five different currencies and stumbled through six languages. We've ridden on 2 dozen buses, three trains, and two airplanes.

Our final days in Hanoi were spent wrapping up the museum circuit. A visit to the Vietnamese Military Museum left us feeling a sort of admiration for the Vietnamese who fought against one oppressor or another for seven plus decades. Their independence was secured only after the entire nation stood together - old and young, wealthy and poor, men and women - to defeat a great giant. And victory came only after Uncle Ho passed away in 1969. It was humbling.

Last stop in Hanoi was the Temple of Literature - a Confucian University with buildings dating from the 11th century. (Await the photos with bated breath.)

Our flight to Kuala Lumpur (KL), Malaysia was less momentous for us than it was for our fellow passengers. 95% of those on board were Vietnamese laborers being sent to KL for work. It was quickly apparent that most of them had never before been on an airplane. They were clearly inexperienced in fastening seatbelts or remaining seated during take off and landing.

KL was refreshingly clean, generally free of honking horns, with passable sidewalks, and enforced traffic laws. And I've found the Malays to be some of the sweetest and kindest people we've encountered in SE Asia. Rather than scowling at me and barking orders - the immigration officer actually smiled and wished me a pleasant stay in the country. When we've been clueless on buses or on the streets - inevitably some lovely Malay comes forward to help us out.

We've been thrilled with the cuisine options. Our hotel in KL was tucked in between China Town and Little India. Chance and good fortune led us straight to the doors of an all veg Indian restaurant. The staff were exceedingly patient and helpful. We ordered blindly - unfamiliar with everything on the menu. Our super-friendly server walked us through the proper procedures. Food arrived on a tin plate with a banana leaf and 10 tin cups of various delectable items (none of which I could describe to you now). After eating up the flat bread, our banana leaf was piled high with steamed rice and dal. Traditionally this meal is eaten with the fingers. You use your fingers to scoop out the food, put it on the leaf, mix it up with the rice, and pop it in your mouth (right hand only - left hand is for unclean things). However, as the only foreigners there- we got a wink and a spoon. Francis described the meal as like Ethiopian food - only good. We were good-naturedly teased throughout the meal and sent off with a head waggle - an Indian gesture I once spent time perfecting with an old office mate (shout out to Sher-Bair).


Cleanliness and order do not come without a price, and we've over-extended our budget a bit in Malaysia. This predominately Muslim nation is no place for sinners - cigarettes and beer are enough to break the bank. Beer in (unbelievably - gasp) twice what it costs us at home, and white wine is nowhere to be found. So, with our love of sin and limited funds - I expect we'll be on our way back to Thailand shortly - blowing through here like the rains that have been following our SE Asian tour for the last two weeks.

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